Off-Gassing with Friends

Aufgussing in Bali

I’m not hallucinating - not quite - but in this steamy 180 degrees Russian “Banya,” memories of old friends I’ve shared saunas with are blurring my eyes as much as the sweat pouring off my forehead.

We’ve lucked out on an Aufgussing ceremony at our fancy gym/spa here in Ubud, Bali. In preparation, the leader is playing a soundtrack of meditative melodies and bird calls to match his plaintive om’s. Rather than relaxing, I find it stressful as I channel Cai and Galen’s birding passion - what birds are these? Some generic Amazon birds, no doubt - certainly no Plaintive Cukoos or the type of birds that serenade us each morning from the palm trees lining our private villa pool. Dammit Cai, are you turning me into a birder who demands authenticity?!

As our earnest Russian guru adds essential oils to the hot rocks, the soothing aroma transports me back to the rooftop of the Hewing Hotel in St. Paul. In between the hot sessions of our first aufgussing, we plunged into a clawfoot tub filled with icewater, then lounged with dear friends in the heated rooftop pool overlooking the frozen tundra that is Minnesota. The cold plunge pool here in Bali may be just as shocking, but the hanging around on an 80-degree evening is a welcome salve compared to the Hewing rooftop, or the frozen lake after our real ice plunges in the Lake Harriet “magic hole” with those same foolhardy friends.

Lake Harriet, Minnesota, 2022
Lake Harriet, Minnesota, 2022

Without our brave Minnesota friends, we are sharing this experience with a dozen 30-something travellers and nomads. The sauna we built in our Minnesota basement as a COVID project was likewise usually filled with young adventurers. While our peers politely declined (“You’re just trying to get us naked!”, laughed Mr. Doug), Zekiah’s friend group would pile in merrily. Our sauna built for 6 adults could fit 16 teens, whose version of the cold plunge was to run half-naked down the snowy streets.

To my credit, I never succumbed to the urge to lock the doors and make them beg to get back in from the -20 degree cold. Perhaps it’s PTSD from my first-ever true sauna experience at Whistler Mountain, where I accidentally locked my big brother outside the hotel after we had run outside to roll in the snow. While we sat in the sauna trying to thaw, he was running around the entire hotel complex with bare feet in a 1980’s Speedo, finally being let back inside by some appreciative female guests. I hid behind my big cousin Rob when he finally shivered his way back into the hot box, and to this day don’t know if he believes it was an accident.

Karma got the last laugh a few decades later at a grade 2 parents social gathering. In Sarah’s words:

Kristi and I left the sauna early, but couldn’t back the car out of the snowy Ecovillage parking lot. Miraculously 2 angels appeared in our headlights in the form of Ricky and Patrick. Wearing nothing but boxer shorts they leaned over the car and heaved, muscles straining, hot steam rising from their glistening skin as they lifted the car free, then scampered barefoot through the snow back into the dark night and hot steamy sauna from whence they came.

(OK, I wrote that, but it’s how I hope Kristi and Sarah remember us…)

Our leader splashes water on the hot rocks, then pushes the steam around the sauna with intricate, graceful and sometimes vigorous swooshes of his wormwood weed whisk. Trusting that both the sauna’s construction materials and our fellow sweaters’ low bean intake will prevent off-gassing, we open ourselves to the blasts of burning wind that “opens up the pores, promotes sweating, and enhances detoxification.”

I recognize the skinny young man laying prostate below us by his semi-transparent tighty-whitey swim shorts. We met a few days ago in the changeroom, in those same descriptive shorts, as he simultaneously dried his shirt with a blowdryer and did curls with the changeroom bench.

We finish with a final cold outdoor shower and cold plunge, then sit around the fire pit enjoying the warm tropical breeze. A 5-minute walk home and a contented slumber await for us detoxified, deeply relaxed sojourners. Like most rituals, I don’t believe most of the underlying theory and hoopla, but settle into it enough to feel cleansed and relaxed afterwards, and grateful for the sweet memories of all my fellow sweat-mates and shiver-buddies of saunas and cold-plunges past.

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