Broken Rice – Final Flavours of Hoi An
Broken rice - those discard, misshapen bits after the milling and cleaning process - has come a long way. From animal feed, to poor-man’s food during times of starvation, to the iconic Cơm tấm dish with fried egg and pork. Today it stands proudly as a cultural symbol of the hardships, poverty, and resilience of the working class during French colonial times and periods of war.
I take my broken rice at the local food joint next door. When not teeming with babbling teens from the school across the street, I wake up the matron slumped in her plastic chair and point at one of the 6 items on the menu. In the time it takes me to plop down onto a very low red-plastic chair, she can serve up a big $1 plate of the ready-made staple, and just as quickly fall back asleep while I navigate broken rice with criss-crossing chopsticks.
This is part of the commitment I made three blog posts ago to branch out from cooking our own food and actually enjoy the plethora of affordable, delicious and adventurous foods. (We also failed miserably to emulate our fellow nomads in ordering a meal delivery - maybe next lifetime.)
Broken Sidewalks
Like the mismatched, broken rice, I have final tastes and colours and impressions of Hoi An that could too easily be discarded. For instance, the stretches of broken pavement that could indeed serve as sidewalks were they not ever so useful for parking scooters, roasting pigs, and selling avocados. These four photos are from one walk on a single block.
Broken Vietnamese
Some final tasty morsels from my Easy Peasy Vietnamesy language lessons
- Chuối - banana. It’s almost the same as the word for “discouraged,” so in Gen Z slang, “Bananas!” means something that’s so difficult that you have no motivation to do it anymore. Students also never eat bananas before an exam, for fear of slipping on the peel.
- Bơ - Butter. It’s also slang for ghosting someone, like slipping away smooth as butter.
- Bốn (“Bone”) - 4. Four is an unlucky number associated with death, so many buildings do not have a 4th floor. Nor a 13th. Nor a 7th, also associated with death because a soul continues to live 7 weeks with their family after death. So, since the ground floor is the 1st floor, if your hotel room is on the 14th floor you might only climb 10 flights of stairs.
- Nước - Water. But since Vietnam is largely defined by its 3,260km coastline along the South China Sea (for perspective, that’s equivalent to the entire Eastern Seaboard from Amherst Nova Scotia to Miami Florida), nước also means country. When they ask what country you’re from, they’re literally asking what water you are from.
- Ôi trời ơi! - Oh my God! Trời (“choy”) means the skies, or weather. Ôi (“oy”) is to call for someone's attention, like “Hey!” Strung together, “oy choy oy” would be “hey sky, hey!”, but translates to our “Good Heavens!”
- Ngủ ngon (“N’goo n’gone”) - Good night. Ngủ means to sleep, and ngon actually means delicious, so we tell each other to “Sleep delicious” (a variation on “sweet dreams?”)
And some final delicious photos that didn’t quite fit into other narratives. A lot are from the first few weeks when everything was fresh. Before forgetting how miraculous it is to cycle past water buffalo in a rice paddy on the way to a coffee shop. Before broken rice became a staple lunch instead of a novelty. Before becoming accustomed to the everyday splendor that for two glorious months has been life in Hoi An, Vietnam.
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Ubud, Bali for the month of April. Then a 3-day boat trip to snorkle and see the dragons of Komodo Island
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Chicago & Philadelphia (May), Scotland (June). Please share any sites, people or ideas by email.
Thanks Rick, I’m reminded of my dad who once said that the only way he would get to travel overseas was to read National Geographic. So I’m traveling via your experiences and photos. (He and mom got to travel to Vancouver.)
Same here! Love travelling vicariously through your blogs Rick!
Fantastic post! I’m so envious of you adventures and glad I can enjoy a vicarious experience!
I want that mango dish!!!
Love to you both!!!
Thanks for the history of broken rice. Very interesting. We always used it for chicken congee.