Paris and the Slow Movement Movement

Going for slow movement in Paris

Paris seems like an odd place to muse upon Going Slow.  But a Joy of travel isn’t just seeing new places; it’s how they help you reflect and reshape your understanding of your own wacky ways and world.

Slow is not my habitual gear.  Whether on the soccer field or plowing through the endless Things To Do list, I’ve always wanted to run fast and get as much done with as much efficiency as possible.  Combine several tasks into a single well-mapped outing.  Wash a few dishes in between each round of stirring the oatmeal.  Do the mental calculation of whether the few steps saved by parking closer to the store outweigh the risk of those prize spots being taken and having to circle back around.

A great gift of Retirement is the space to gradually replace Efficiency with Quality.  Those mental parking lot calculations are tiring - my Peace of Mind and quality of life are better when I simply park at the first easy spot, finish listening to Rachmaninov on NPR, then log a few extra steps into the store.  The oatmeal is less-often burnt when I just focus on stirring, and later on the dishes will be cleaner when they get my full loving attention (see Thich Nhat Hanh for the classic quote on mindful dishwashing).

What does that have to do with Paris?

We’ve been learning to apply the same slow attitude toward travel.  At a daily life level, I found myself leaving earlier and driving the speed limit, staying off the freeways, and taking “Beauty Cuts” instead of short cuts when driving locally.  In the process I discover new sights and gardens and houses, more often encounter the Baron of Bubble (weaving gigantic bubbles at random Minneapolis street corners to spread Joy), lower my electricity/fuel costs and emissions, and feel calmer and safer.  A few extra minutes (if that) won’t kill me, and just might save me.

During last fall’s 6,000 mile North American tour, we learned to apply this to long driving days.  Driving an electric vehicle helps - every 2-3 hours we have to stop and stretch for half an hour while recharging, and our range goes down steeply after about 69 mph.  But even with those breaks, traveling more than 6 hours turns a day into an epic burden to be endured rather than an adventure to be embraced. We started breaking long stretches into shorter days where we could explore back roads, sleep in unexpected towns, stumble across Barbed Wire museums, and savor picnic lunches instead of gas station fried chicken. 

Now for these next 9 months in Europe, we’re trying to apply the same lessons to air and train travel. Our free stopover (and expensive stay) for 3 days in Iceland broke up an otherwise long red-eye flight, and gave us a taste of a delicious new Nordic wonderland. And now we have gifted ourselves a bonus night in Paris en route from Flavigny France to Ireland.  If we hadn’t, our day could have looked like this: 

Wake at 5am for frantic packing & cleaning, stress until the taxi arrives, pray the 8am train to Paris is on time, rush onto a 10:30 Paris metro then train to the airport, hope security isn’t too delayed, arrive panting and relieved at the gate 10 minutes before the 2:15 boarding time.  Repeat most of the above when we arrive in Cork and transfer to a bus to Bantry, text host family at 8pm to come pick us up for the final leg to Schull.  Arrive exhausted (if all went well) at 9pm, 17 hours after waking up.

Instead, we ambled in the light morning rain around the ramparts of Flavigny, sang while we cleaned, and strolled up to meet the taxi at the church knowing that if he was late, we had several other later trains we could catch.  We spent a fabulous night experiencing the Montparnasse neighbourhood of Paris (so peaceful on a Sunday night in the lull between the Olympics and ParaOlympics), logging 14,000 steps, eating Perfection in the form of baba ganoush and venison at the La Petite Souer bistro, wandering down to the Luxembourg Palace, and finished the night outside another corner cafe sharing a bread pudding. 

This morning we woke up fresh, consumed another hearty round of caramel crepes and croissants and pan chocolat, and arrived stress-free two hours before our flight to Cork - where we’ll also enjoy a bonus night and morning of exploring before bussing tomorrow to Bantry - where we’ll also enjoy a bonus night and morning of exploring before…

Over hot cocoa (with real chocolate) and pistachio pan suisse this morning, our friend Seanna called this “dense time”.  Moving slowly and consciously enough that moments matter, senses can make sense of what’s taken in, memories can stick.  The “thin time” of a stressed rushing style leads to Lost and Wasted and Forgotten time, arriving at the station without any absorption of the journey.

Here’s to shorter trips, longer stop-overs, and lingering croissant-and-hot-chocolate breakfasts in Paris street cafés.

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