To ease culture shock we’re in a modern apartment in Gueliz, an easy bus ride or 30-minute walk from the chaotic Medina, and an interesting bustling neighbourhood in its own right. Art galleries, high-end restaurants, well-stocked supermarkets, 6-lane roads and giant roundabouts, gelato - once again, a challenge to stereotypes and a great way to introduce the boys to the “real” multi-layered Africa.  Ironically, though not surprisingly, most of the photos I have to share are from the old Medina market streets and historical areas - it’s hard to remember to take photos of everyday Africa.

Before heading out into the desert, we spend our last evening at the “Jemaa el-Fna” main square, described on one blog as “one of the most exciting venues in the world. Offerings are likely to be merguez sausages, grilled meats, harira soup and fried fish. The more adventurous might want to try a whole sheep’s head with eyes still intact. Listen to storytellers recant the heritage of ancient Berber tribes. Watch magicians extract oohs and aahs from attentive kids. Enjoy the grace and energy of dancers silhouetted by the glare of naked lightbulbs.”

We don’t see quite that much, but we do gather around a drum performance, enjoy the mass of people everywhere, and sip some expensive drinks overlooking the square. Halfway home, we complete the evening with an exquisite a tomato-stracciatella tarte tatin and a roasted half eggplant topped with labneh, olive oil and preserved lemon at Maison Reine.