Ultralight Backpacking in Banff

Banff National Park

If I had to spend the rest of my life on a desert island, you are the 10 men I would want to spend it with.

Thus began Jonathan's invitation to go on a "Long Walk" two years ago. Honoured to be among the chosen disciples, and trusting that anyone whom Jonathan could love that much woud be worth spending a week in the mountains with, five of us ended up in on the Continental Divide Trail in Montana for a week of discovering new friendships and new muscle groups.

This year we reunite to explore another bucket-list dreamscape: Banff National Park in Alberta, Canada. The landscape is powerful and infinitely varied. Over 8 days and 170 km we traverse wide open meadows, sharp glacier-cut lunar landscapes, crystal clear (and cold!) lakes, mossy marshland and dense woods.

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We once again commit to "Ultralight Backpacking," to which standard I come close with 14 pounds of equipment (ten is the gold standard) and another 17 of food and fuel (way too much trail mix - next time I'll trust the caloric content of crackers and humus). All food is evaluated by its calorie:weight ratio (Frito's make the grade, and we add olive oil oil to everything). Breakfasts and lunches are a simple adding of hot water to dehydrated oats/pasta/rice etc and letting it rehydrate for 10 minutes.

31 pounds is still a lot to set out with, but over time the pack becomes less burden and more buddy, letting us bound through the trails and arrive not too exhausted and sore. One of the last days we set off on an additional 3-hour detour and don't even bother taking the packs off! But along the way it sure feels good to drop the pack and enjoy the stunning vistas and mountain passes we have achieved.

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The first few miles up Johnston Canyon are a circus of tour groups and even a coffee hut, but once back country we rarely see other people. And thanks to very deliberate "HEY BEAR!" calls (or, in my case, enthusiastic singing of "Bear Necessities"), we manage not to surprise much wildlife.

But based on the plentiful skat, systems to hang food out of reach, and pawprints we see, we're clearly not alone out here. Nor is there a shortage of flowers, fungus and berries.

Grizzly bear track
Grizzly bear track
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Bears are clearly fattening up on berries before winter hibenation
Bears are clearly fattening up on berries before winter hibenation
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Parks Canada staff are clearly respecters of nature. The trail maintenence standard seems to be, if a little tree starts to grow across the path, we'll just stomp a little detour around it and let it be. Thick waist-high gorse or other spiny shrubs scratch and claw at our legs as we work hard to even see where the path continues.

River crossings range from sturdy structures, to once-sturdy structures, to logs, to "unbuckle your waist strap so in case you get swept down-river you can quickly get out of your pack before it pulls you under."

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Just like on the Camino, I find my mind going soft and easy. No phone (all these photos are thanks to my buddies), no news, no songs, sometimes easy chats and sometimes easy silence. The day just flows along at the pace of step after step that tends to add up to 5km per hour but never feels like more than one step at a time.

Even now I struggle to piece together a narrative. I do remember that glorious morning swim in Lake Ptarmagin; the afternoon we coudn't find the trail straight up to the glacier and instead discovered a glacier-fed waterfall pouring through a natural bridge; the full moon lighting up the sharp mountains looming over our campsite at Baker Lake; the herd of mule-deer (?) far below our lunch spot; barefoot bushwhacking to an almost-swimmable lake then solo bushwhacking back down along the creek to rejoin the main trail.

But mostly I feel the trip - the thin frosty morning air, the abundance of time, the freedom to embrace Being over Thinking, the primordial power of earth's millenial history creating this natural playground and the power of my body to dive into it.

Thank you, Jonathan, for being a big ball of love willing to draw us into your glowing orbit. Thank you Bo for being a guide and mentor as well as friend, standing downstream quiet and strong to allay my river-crossing fears. Thank you Michael for the courage to join into an old group with new energy and mule-deer strength.

And thank you to Banff - and yes, to Parks Canada - for providing access to a pure touch-the-heavens lose-yourself playscape.

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This is the mountain we set out to climb one free afternoon...
This is the mountain we set out to climb one free afternoon...
...but instead ended up discovering this Natural Bridge
...but instead ended up discovering this Natural Bridge
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6 Comments

  1. Ron on September 17, 2025 at 2:03 pm

    Wow Richard, that looks like a great time through Banff. Wonderful Photos, I know you cannot take credit for, but was a beautiful site.

  2. Kay Chornook on September 17, 2025 at 3:03 pm

    Another amazing Canadian landscape. More dramatic than most, stunningly seductive, and plays a little hard to get….obviously worth the effort. Carry on Rick!

  3. Colin on September 17, 2025 at 4:14 pm

    Great photos. We’re enjoying your “blogs”.

  4. Sherri Lewis on September 17, 2025 at 7:05 pm

    Rick, you are one amazing and intrepid guy. Kudos on this grand effort!!!

  5. Art Broderson on September 18, 2025 at 11:42 am

    Rick, wow so beautiful so sweet, thank you for a real day brightner

  6. Lisa Woods on September 18, 2025 at 1:35 pm

    Thanks for sharing! I love that you all get to do this trip each year. 🙂

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