Weekend in Kosovo
One reason we chose to set up camp in Albania for 2 months is the easy access to several other countries we know nothing about. With a half-day drive one can cross the border into Montenegro, Kosovo, North Macedonia or Greece, and the outer ring of Croatia, Bosnia & Herzegovina, Serbia, Romania, Bulgaria and Italy are an easy $100 plane ride away.
We flip several coins and point the rental mini-car north-east to Kosovo, attracted equally by the rugged mountains, majority Albanian-origin population (they’re now allowed to vote in the upcoming Albanian elections), and hazy half-memories of the war that raged there when Sarah and I first started our email romance 27 years ago.
Quick history of Kosovo: It used to be part of Yugoslavia. Starting in the mid-1980’s, Serbian leader Slobodan Milošević fought for increased Serbian control (Serbians were about 30% of the population), engaging in ethnic cleansing while the Albanian ethnic majority fought back in what devolved into the Kosovo War. The war ended in 1999 with the UN taking control of the country (by bombing the bejeebers out of it) until independence was declared in 2008. So, Kosovo is Europe’s youngest independent country (and the world’s second youngest, after South Sudan). An independence that is still not recognized by 86 of the United Nation's 197 countries, notably including Serbia and Spain.
The Accursed Mountains of Peja
Our first 2 nights are in Peja, nestled as cosy as a Hallmark Christmas movie village at the mighty foot of the Accursed Mountains (also known as the Albanian Alps). According to one local legend, the devil escaped from hell and created the jagged glacial karsts in a single day of mischief. Others say a woman cursed the mountains while she and her children trekked through them on a scorching-hot day and could not find any water. A third legend claims Slavic soldiers gave the mountains their name as they struggled to march through them.
Regardless of name origin, Peja sparkles as fresh and hopeful as their mountain-stream water - “The best in Kosovo” according to our AirBnB host. Like 80% of the town, their family home was destroyed during the war - he apologizes for the yet-unfinished renovations on the exterior. Every building is a new build, a rebuild in progress, or a cement slab or pile of rubble that was once a home.
While only 27-years-old as an independent nation, the preceding Yugoslavia allowed much more exposure to Western culture than its secluded neighbour Albania. Where Albanians sometimes feel like they’re still trying on Western styles for size, Kovovans have a calm confidence in the world. More bluejeans and actual colours (Albanians love their black sweatsuits), more McDonalds-ripoff burger joints, more 1980’s Abba and Bryan Adams in the air.
The fully-rebuilt pedestrian-only market has more modern, glitzy, Panem-worthy bridal gowns than there could possibly be brides in a tiny country of 791,614 women (and 795,046 men as of 2024 - how’s that for equity?)
The Patriarchate of Pec
We walk along the river outside town to a Serbian orthodox monastery that is one of the most important medieval monuments in Kosovo. An old nun slowly ambles across the courtyard, past the wishing well and the centuries-old mulberry trees optimistically supported with 2x4’s, to unlock the church for us (and later sell us huge beeswax candles). The artwork inside is as mystical as the cave churches of Cappadocia in Turkey.
Ruvoga Gorge(ous!)
Back in our very small rental car, we continue up into the Ruvoga Gorge. A one-hour hike gives us a taste of how challenging and powerful the 190 km Peaks of the Balkans hike through Albania, Montenegro and Kosovo would (no, make that “will”) be like. But as breathtaking as the views and trails are, it’s the road that leaves us gasping in amazement. Boldly and crudely cut right through the black foreboding sides of the steep canyon walls, we creep beneath overhangs, up steep hairpin cutback turns, and through narrow bendy tunnels, always ready to squeeze up beside the rough rocky walls or abrupt exposed canyon edges to allow oncoming traffic to pass.
Even out here in natural paradise we are reminded of how recent and how horrific the war was. We hike past bombed-out house. A sign celebrates the removal of 26 cluster bombs in the area we can now safely hike.
Decani Monastery
Half an hour south we visit another 14th century Serbian monastery, every bit as secluded and foot-of-mountain-tucked and beautiful as the first. And like the first, it is protected by road barriers then UN forces, who exchange our passports for visitor passes. Kosovar Albanians have “shown their discontent” here multiple times in the past, and the monastery served as a sanctuary for Serbian and Roma people during the war.
The church took 7 years to build the stonework, then 7 more to paint the interior. Richly imbued with super-expensive indigo paint as well as gold leaf overlay, the paintings remain remarkably vivid 7 centuries later. Our self-appointed guide shows us the only image of Jesus with a sword - to demonstrate justice, he assures us, not killing.
Prizren
After an hour’s drive through rich plateau farmlands, our final two nights are in Prizren, Kosovo’s second largest city at the base of yet more mountains. While Sarah works in a very artsy café, I huff and puff up to the old castle on the hilltop, mosey around old mosques and a restored hammam, and through the narrow meandering cobblestone streets up the opposite hill.
But mostly we settle into the local coffee culture, joining the masses of locals and visitors (mostly regional) sitting at outdoor tables for hours over a coffee or baklava. Then to a restaurant patio for a meal of grilled sausage or Turkish meatballs or Albanian fish. Then to another outdoor table for pastries or gelato. Just like Albania, there’s never a push to flip a table - the closest we come is being joined by two lovely French tourists during the lunch rush.
Recent and ancient history, art, nature, baklava and relaxation - Kosovo has everything we could ask for in a 5-day getaway.
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Currently in...
Mayne Island, BC, then to a family wedding in Surrey
Heading to...
Paris, Albania, Milan, then Cambodia-Thailand-Vietnam for Oct-May. Please share any sites, people or ideas by email.
What a journey. Incredible
💜
Wow how did I miss this post. Thanks for the map at the start! I studied every photo – Kosovo is a place I know nothing about. But now I know a little through your eyes. Thank you for writing about your adventures. I’m loving learning through you.
Glad to share our learning, though really it’s best to come learn it through your own eyes!